An exquisitely Italian evening in one of the most evocative areas of London. The Italian Art of Living event was hosted last Monday at Battersea Power Station, on the banks of the Thames, whose striking chimneys of the power plant were featured on the cover of Pink Floyd's Animal album. That was 1977. At the piano, this time, was Roberto Terenzi, with his jazz, paired with Ferrari bubbles and the tried and tested recipes of Francesco Mazzei in his latest restaurant: Fiume.
Opening the event was a seminar conducted by Marco Sabellico and Matteo Lunelli, entirely dedicated to chardonnay, production protagonist of the Trentino winery. In the lineup also three vintages of Giulio Ferrari: the 2006, which is rich, powerful, with excellent perspective margins; the 2000, which is a more evolved, soft and spicy vintage; in closing, a stratospheric Giulio Ferrari Collection 1997, 18 years on the lees, savory, creamy, with a progression that is simply enchanting, graceful and very long. "The surprise of the evening? For me it was the Perlè Zero, I had not tasted an Italian sparkling wine of such style and of such quality", commented the Master of Wine Anne Krebiehl. Taking part in the celebrations were over two hundred operators, sommeliers (many Italians at the helm of important restaurants in the City) and journalists, the party was peppered with music, bubbles and delights based on fregola, gnocchi, gourmet pizzas and lots more. "These are surely the most representative Italian bubbles in the UK", commented Master of wine Michael Edward. "I simply adore this wine", echoed Carla Capaldo. "The London market is rediscovering Italian bubbles. It is a demanding palate, and Prosecco is putting a breach in the otherwise tall wall, but there is so much space for the uniqueness of Italian bubbles. Our essential, alpine, mineral flavours, are much appreciated. And all of the Trentodoc is growing", according to Matteo Lunelli.
Just take a look at the numbers. In 2017, Italian bubbles, according to Istat data, grew overall by 8.9% in quantity in the United Kingdom (1.1 million liters) with an increase of 11.9% (409 million Euro). A bit more undulant are the numbers at the start of 2018: the first quarter shows a decline in volumes of 6.1% (20.2 million liters), but however recorded an increase in the collected values of 2% (75, 7 million Euro) compared to the January-March period of 2017. This shows how this market is mainly seeking quality. On the other hand, quality is also at centre stage of Italian restaurants in the city: as many as 16 venues reviewed in our Top Italian Restaurants guide. "In the past many Italian chefs here wanted to overdo it. For me, Italian cuisine is an ingredient, territory, regionality", says Francesco Mazzei, owner of three restaurants in London. "My success is simplicity. Keep it simple", he smiles.
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