23 Oct 2017 / 17:10

BiancaVigna. Conegliano's emerging winery

In a zone with a long history like Conegliano Valdobbiadene, it’s easy to imagine how difficult it would be for a new entity to find a place in such a firmly consolidated scene. Nevertheless, Elena and Enrico Moschetta have been able to develop their winery with speed and precision, rapidly becoming one of the benchmarks of the denomination.

BiancaVigna. Conegliano's emerging winery

In a zone with a long history like Conegliano Valdobbiadene, it’s easy to imagine how difficult it would be for a new entity to find a place in such a firmly consolidated scene. Nevertheless, Elena and Enrico Moschetta have been able to develop their winery with speed and precision, rapidly becoming one of the benchmarks of the denomination.

The origins

Their adventure began a dozen or so years ago, in 2004, when Enrico, an experienced enologist who had worked in key firms in the territory, and Elena, a manager in multinational companies, decided to join forces and found BiancaVigna. They drew on a family heritage of farming and vineyards in the Coneglianese area.

For a few years, production took advantage of pre-existing structures, until 2015, when, finally, their new winery on via Montenero was completed. The splendid complex is perfectly set in the hilly vineyards that develop north of Conegliano in the Vittorio Veneto direction. The building’s Casa Clima Wine certification underlines the couple’s effort to attain ecological sustainability, seeking for minimum impact not only from the esthetic point of view, but also in every choice that affects the environment such as bottle weight, building insulation, light, recyclable packing materials, working ambiance.

Today the vineyards extend for about thirty hectares, mostly in the central-eastern zone of the denomination. They include vineyards in both DOC and DOCG areas, often separated only by a road. Among these, the most precious are the historic San Gallo vineyard near Soligo and the vineyards of Ogliano and Collalto. In the qualitative pyramid of Prosecco, these vineyards are located at the peak, giving them the right to be called Rive, a prerogative only of vineyards on the steepest hills with the best exposures, those that produce grapes with great character.

The territory

The management of the territory is very similar to that of Champagne. A limited number of bottlers work with a small army of growers who cultivate minimal properties spread all around the area. The power of Elena and Enrico’s winery lies in their ability to control the entire production line for most of their bottles, guaranteeing not only continuity of quality, but also the ability to attentively interpret their territory.

Production today is at about 650,000 bottles annually, a number that varies according to the weather during the vintage year. The firm makes exclusively sparkling wines, which are interpreted to enhance the character of the grapes from this territory, which do not display the intense aromas of those from the Valdobbiadene zone. They do, however, have the gift of healthy fruitiness and substance in the mouth, qualities that are the truly distinctive feature of wines from the central-eastern zone.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Brut Nature Rive di Ogliano Mill. ’16

The vineyard spreads out over about two hectares lying between 70 and 170 meters above sea level, on a slope delicately inclined towards east and west. Production involves a long sparkling-wine process which confers on the nose the classic notes of apple, pear and wisteria which do not, however, explode immediately on the nose. They appear a little at a time, almost unwillingly. On the palate, the wine’s provenance is revealed, with dry and decisive flavor perfectly sustained and balanced under great tension.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Brut Dosaggio Zero Rive di Soligo Mill. ’16

In this case, too, the production process continues for many months and the wine appears even more closed than its eastern cousin. The altitude of the San Gallo vineyard reaches 380 meters, and the slope is very steep. The grapes display delicate and tenuous aromas that range from white fruit to wild flowers, letting a more vegetal soul peek through. On the palate the wine is bold, stern and direct, presenting an energetic mouthful of great length.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Mill. ’16

Made with grapes from a range of vineyards, its fruit is more available, playing on notes that are riper, sunnier. In the mouth, the profile is surprisingly dry, a true trademark of the winery. Savory, agile and long, it delicately enfolds the palate.

Conegliano Valdobbiadene Brut Mill. ’16

The grapes for the production of the Brut come from the easternmost zone of the denomination, from altitudes that range from 70 t0 270 meters. The wine’s fragrances are direct and clean, with notes of white fruit spiked with hints of vegetal and floral notes. It is solid and sustained in the mouth by savory, bold acidity.

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