21 Mar 2018 / 11:03

Smartwines Berebene 2018: Lazio

Our Berebene guide to good, inexpensive wines has given generous space to the labels from Lazio. Here are all the products with the best quality/price ratio.

Smartwines Berebene 2018: Lazio

Our Berebene guide to good, inexpensive wines has given generous space to the labels from Lazio. Here are all the products with the best quality/price ratio.

 

Lazio's production

The region’s production “mutation” has occurred. In recent years we have always stressed how the most interesting labels of Lazio, with the exception of a handful of high quality ones, have been shifting from so-called international grapes to native ones, with added and increased interest leaning towards origin denominations. This year’s overturn is total. Of 24 wines awarded, only two boast as dominant grape variety an international one, both belonging to Casale del Giglio, the winery that more than any other in Lazio was able to interpret in an original way, and as an opportunity to promote the quality of these vines. The majority of these––13 out of 24––are origin denomination wines. This is a situation that’s diametrically opposite witnessed only a few years ago, one which embraces typicality and recognisability. It should also be noted that, contrary to the situation in other regions, the grand majority of quality Lazio wines can be purchased at value prices, thus offering a much more interesting regional overview. Est!Est!!Est!!! di Montefiascone and Frascati are the two most represented denominations, while in regard to grape varieties, it is cesanese and grechetto.

Est!Est!!Est!!! di Montefiascone Poggio del Cardinale '16

Antica Cantina Leonardi

via del Pino, 12

Montefiascone [VT]

tel. 0761826028

www.cantinaleonardi.it

9.00 euros

Antica Cantina Leonardi is an historic winery of the zone that focuses above all on grechetto. It is also among the principal flagbearers of the Est!Est!!Est!!! denomination of Montefiascone – this is its Poggio del Cardinale selection of this wine. In the 2016 version, fragrances of white and exotic fruit on the nose, along with hints of citrus. The palate has body, is taut and juicy, with a long acidic backbone.

 

Tufaliccio '16

Marco Carpineti

s.da prov.le Velletri-Anzio, 3

Cori [LT]

tel. 069679860

www.marcocarpineti.com

8.30 euros

Helped by his son Paolo, Marco Carpinetti has been directing his winery towards a biodynamic approach in recent years, without renouncing careful and technologically avant-garde work in the cellar. Tufaliccio ’16, a blend of montepulciano (70%) and cesanese, displays notes of licorice and sour cherries on the nose, while the palate is pleasant and shows good tension.

 

Nettuno Cacchione Neroniano '16

Casa Divina Provvidenza

via dei Frati, 58

Nettuno [RM]

tel. 069851366

www.casadivinaprovvidenza.it

8.40 euros

The Cosmi family purchased this estate from the Vatican in 1921. By now, three generations have run it with the idea of offering a modern reading of traditional wines produced from the classic indigenous varieties of the Nettuno zone. A fine example of this project is Nettuno Cacchione Neroniano ’16, with its citrus fruit and yellow fruit tones. Good structure and a savory, long finish.

 

Merlot '15

Casale del Giglio

loc. Le Ferriere

s.da Cisterna-Nettuno km 13

Latina

tel. 0692902530

www.casaledelgiglio.it

12.80 euros

Antonio Santarelli’s winery is a mainstay of regional (and not only) production. Factors such as research into different varieties, vineyard practices that echo those in Bordeaux, California and Australia, and terrain exposed to the influence of the sea, as the Agro Pontino zone is to the Tyrrhennian, have helped the winery turn out of series of monovarietal wines that have met with great success. Merlot ’15 is richly fruity and substantial, with notes of aromatic herbs.

 

Satrico '16

Casale del Giglio

loc. Le Ferriere

s.da Cisterna-Nettuno km 13

Latina

tel. 0692902530

www.casaledelgiglio.it

10.00 euros

Among the various wines made by the Casale del Giglio, Satrico has a privileged place on our Berebene list – it has received our award so often. In the 2016 version, sauvignon (40%) plays a dominant role in the blend, accompanied by 30% each of chardonnay and trebbiano giallo. The nose displays notes of yellow peach and hints of spice, while the palate is savory, with good substance and grip.

 

Frascati Campo Vecchio '16

Castel de Paolis

via Val de Paolis

Grottaferrata [RM]

tel. 069413648

www.casteldepaolis.com

9.20 euros

Castel de Paolis is the winegrowing project that Giulio Santarelli launched in 1985 with the involvement of Professor Attilio Scienza. Produced in the Grottaferrata zone, on volcanic terrain that reaches 270 meters of altitude not very far from the Tyrrhenian coast, this Frascati Campo Vecchio 2016 has a fresh nose with notes of grass and sage. The palate is juicy and assertive, not at all banal.

 

Cesanese del Piglio Sup. De Antiochia '14

Cantina Sociale Cesanese del Piglio

via Prenestina, km 42

Piglio [FR]

tel. 0775502356

www.cesanesedelpiglio.it

9.20 euros

Cantina Sociale Cesanese del Piglio was founded in 1960. Today it has more than 120 members who cultivate 150 hectares of vineyard all over the territory of the denomination, from Anagni to Affile and from Fiuggi almost to Genazzano. Cesanese del Piglio Superiora De Antiochia ’14 is truly typical. On the nose, notes of moist earth and black berries, with hints of vegetal tones. The palate is rich, full and assertive.

 

Castore '16

Cincinnato

via Cori - Cisterna, km 2

Cori [LT]

tel. 069679380

www.cincinnato.it

6.10 euros

This cooperative winery is one of the mainstays of the Cori zone for its quality and productive continuity. Add to this the great attention paid towards varieties such as nero buono di Cori and bellone, plus good price/quality rapport, and you can understand why the wines of Cincinnato always appear among our Berebene wines. Castore ’16 is an aromatic Bellone, pleasant and assertive, with notes of citron and white fruit.

 

Cesanese di Olevano Romano Sup. Silene '15

Damiano Ciolli

via del Corso

Olevano Romano [RM]

tel. 069563334

www.damianociolli.it

10.80 euros

Damiano Ciolli founded his winery in 2001 and has dedicated himself to producing Cesanese di Olevano Romano. The winery can draw on 5 hectares of vineyard, all within the denomination. Cesanese di Olevano Romano Superiore Silene ’15 is made from a monovarietal selection of cesanese comune grapes from vines planted between 1981 and 2002. Easy to drink, fresh and elegant, it shows notes of forest floor, cherry and pencil lead, with a hint of rosemary on the finish.

 

Saìno '14

Cordeschi

via Cassia km 137,400

Acquapendente [VT]

tel. 3356953547

www.cantinacordeschi.it

10.60 euros

The Cordeschi family winery is one of the most interesting in the winegrowing panorama of Alto Lazio. It has little more than 8 hectares of vineyard that extend along the Paglia River, near the town of Acquapendente. Saìno ’14 is a blend of sangiovese (80%) with equal amounts of cabernet sauvignon and montepulciano making up the rest. Aromas of cherry and bell pepper on the nose, with hints of tobacco and licorice. The palate is juicy, full, and satisfyingly long.

 

Cesanese del Piglio Colle Ticchio '16

Corte dei Papi

loc. Colletonno

Anagni [FR]

tel. 0775769271

www.cortedeipapi.it

9.20 euros

The Di Cosmo family manages this lovely winery in the heart of the production zone of Cesanese del Piglio. It is divided into one property for red grapes, Colletonno in the Paliano municipality, and one for white grapes, Villa Ferrari in the Anagni municipality. Cesanese del Piglio Colle Ticchio ’16 offers notes of red cherries and Mediterranean brush on the nose. The palate is richly fruity, with a finish that reveals assertive acidic grip.

 

Est!Est!!Est!!! di Montefiascone Poggio dei Gelsi '16

Falesco

Famiglia Cotarella

s.da st.le Cassia Nord km 94,155

Montefiascone [VT]

tel. 07449556

www.falesco.it

8.00 euros

The Famiglia Cotarella’s Falesco is a habitué of our Berebene, above all with its Est!Est!!Est!!! di Montefiascone Poggio dei Gelsi, one of the most notable labels in the denomination. The 2016 version maintains the tradition and wins a place in our guide. Savory and immediate, it is fresh and pleasant, displaying notes of red oranges and mandarin oranges on both nose and palate, with a typical almondy finish.

 

Frascati Sup. Vign. Santa Teresa '16

Fontana Candida

via Fontana Candida, 11

Monte Porzio Catone [RM]

tel. 069401881

www.fontanacandida.it

9.90 euros

Fontana Candida was established in 1958, and with its entrance into Gruppo Italiano Vini, it became one of the best known brands in the Frascati zone. Frascati Superiore Vigneto Santa Teresa is by now a benchmark for the denomination. The 2016 version confirms the typical characteristics of this label – a light aromatic tone of sage along with pleasant sapidity, a lovely citrusy note, and a fresh, assertive finish.

 

Terra Marique '16

Cantine Lupo

fraz. Campoverde

via Mediana Cisterna, 27

Aprilia [LT]

tel. 0692902455

www.cantinelupo.com

9.90 euros

Cantine Lupo draws from 18 hectares of vineyard in Campoverde, located between the slopes of the Albani hills and the Tyrrhenian coast. The terrain has alluvial and volcanic components with partial silica infiltrations, and is exposed to the influence of the nearby seacoast. Terra Marique ’16 is a monovarietal Vermentino with typical notes of Mediterranean brush on the nose. The palate is coherent, savory and pleasant.

 

Frascati Sup. Sine Metu '16

Cantina Sociale di Monteporzio Catone

via Aldo Moro, 5

Monte Porzio Catone [RM]

tel. 069449195

www.cantinasocialempc.com

9.00 euros

Cantina Sociale di Monteporzio Catone was founded in 1962 and today numbers 250 members who work vineyards in the Frascati and Castelli Romani denominations. The approach is largely traditional, but some of the products are designed with a more modern slant, such as Frascati Superiore Sine Metu ’16. Notes of white fruit and rosemary emerge on the nose, while the palate is pleasant, fresh, fruity and sufficiently long.

 

Frascati Sup. Racemo '16

L’Olivella

via di Colle Pisano, 5

Frascati [RM]

tel. 069424527

www.racemo.it

10.10 euros

L’Olivella is located between Monteporzio and Frascati, on the hills a few kilometers south of Rome, along the Via Tuscolana. It draws from 14 hectares of vineyard of volcanic origin, rich in mineral salts such as potassium, phosphorus, calcium and magnesium. The label to win our award is Frascati Superiore Racemo ’16 thanks to its typical fragrances of citrus fruit and sage, and a clear, pleasant, savory palate.

 

Roma Malvasia Puntinata '16

Principe Pallavicini

via Roma, 121

Colonna [RM]

tel. 069438816

www.vinipallavicini.com

7.60 euros

Principe Pallavicini is one of the wineries that has written the history of the Castelli Romani. Today the property is divided between the Colonna estate, dedicated above all to Frascati, and the estate in Cerveteri, where we find red grapes. Roma Malvasia Puntinata ’16 is, without a doubt, the best example of this recent (and a little confusing) denomination. Fresh and varietal, it has good fruit and is savory and flavorful.

 

Grechetto 109 '16

Tenuta La Pazzaglia

s.da di Bagnoregio, 4

Castiglione in Teverina [VT]

tel. 0761947114

www.tenutalapazzaglia.it

10.10 euros

Tenuta La Pazzaglia is managed today by the second generation of its owners, the Verdecchia family. Pierfrancesco works in the vineyard, while his sisters Maria Teresa and Laura supervise the work in the winery. The winery has intensified its research into grechetto, and in recent years has produced some of the best labels made with this variety. Grechetto 109 ’16 offers floral and citrus fruit tones, while the palate is tasty, fresh and assertive.

 

Cesanese di Olevano Romano Tenuta al Campo Ris. '12

Proietti

loc. Campo

via Maremmana Superiore, km 2,800

Olevano Romano [RM]

tel. 069563376

www.aziendaagricolaproietti.it

8.00 euros

The Proietti family winery is located on the hills next to the Simbruini mountains, at about 500 meters above sea level, on calcareous-limestone terrain of volcanic origin and rich in minerals. The Tenuta al Campo line represents the selection of the best grapes in the winery vineyards. Cesanese di Olevano Romano Tenuta al Campo Riserva ’12 is all about its fruit, long, juicy, and wonderfully pleasant.

 

Circeo Rosso Riflessi '16

Sant’Andrea

loc. Borgo Vodice

via Renibbio, 1720

Terracina [LT]

tel. 0773755028

www.cantinasantandrea.it

5.70 euros

Andrea and Gabriele Pandolfo’s winery is known, above all, for its different versions of Moscato di Terracina, ranging from dry to spumante to sweet, but the Pandolfos also have vineyards in the best zones of the Circeo denomination. Circeo Rosso Riflessi ’16 is a monovarietal merlot with fragrances of black berries and spices, and a pleasant, richly fruity palate.

 

Primula Lucis '15

Tenuta Le Quinte

via delle Marmorelle, 71

Montecompatri [RM]

tel. 069438756

www.tenutalequinte.it

8.10 euros

The Papi family has lived in the Montecompatri zone since the first half of the 19th century. Today Elio and Giovanna Papi manage Tenuta le Quinte, 20 hectares of vineyard located on the volcanic terrain typical of the Castelli Romani. Their Cesanese Primula Lucis ’15 is an excellent version of this variety, although ‘out of zone’. Aromas are of fresh berry fruit with vegetal hints; the palate is long and fresh, with soft, mouth-filling tannins.

 

Est!Est!!Est!!! di Montefiascone '16

Trappolini

via del Rivellino, 65

Castiglione in Teverina [VT]

tel. 0761948381

www.trappolini.com

6.20 euros

Roberto and Paolo Trappolini successfully manage their family winery, one of the most solid on the Tuscia winegrowing scene. They offer a range of labels, for the most part from indigenous varieties, such as this Est!Est!!Est!!! di Montefiascone ’16, one of the best in the denomination. Lightly aromatic on the nose, with notes of loquat and apricot, it has a fresh, pleasant palate and a satisfyingly long, citrusy finish.

 

Grechetto Terrae Volcani '16

Trappolini

via del Rivellino, 65

Castiglione in Teverina [VT]

tel. 0761948381

www.trappolini.com

9.60 euros

A key player on the winegrowing scene in the Teverina area, the Trappolini family winery has increasingly focused in recent years on the territory’s traditional varieties, in particular grechetto. Grechetto Terrae Volcani ’16 has a rich nose with notes of almond, yellow fruit, lemon and spice scents that give complexity. The palate is long and lively, with light, typical, notably interesting tannin.

 

3Brosé '16

Tre Botti

s.da della Poggetta, 9

Castiglione in Teverina [VT]

tel. 07611986704

www.trebotti.it

10.00 euros

Ludovico, Bernardo and Clarissa Botti devotedly run the family winery, founded in 2003, with great attention to sustainability. It has been organic from the start, Undoubtedly, their most representative variety is aleatico, which they vinify in various ways. 3Brosé ’16, a rosé from aleatico grapes, offers pleasant floral and fresh aromas. The finish is savory, with notes of currants and raspberries.

 

Sangiovese Le Piantate '14

Cantine Volpetti

via Nettunense, 21

Ariccia [RM]

tel. 069342000

www.cantinevolpetti.it

8.70 euros

Founded in 1958, the Volpetti family winery is on the volcanic hills south of Rome, in the heart of the Colli Albani denomination. It can draw on 40 hectares of vineyard, which include both traditional and international varieties. This year, we especially liked Sangiovese Le Piantate ’14 with its fruity nose and assertive, pleasant palate, freshly acidic.

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