Like a kid in a candy store: that's the average condition tasters are in at the ProWein trade fair in Düsseldorf, with its 6,780 exhibitors and wines from over 40 countries. The platform is tried and tested, it is easy to get there, even easier to leave. And a total of 17 international pavilions to visit. There are many tastings, and equally many labels at the opening: here are 10 wines - Italian and non - that hit the nail in the head.
The top 10 we tasted
Lezèr 2017 Foradori
Order magnum, delicious, super drinkable. These are the notes for this first proposal by Elisabetta Foradori. A rosé playing as a Teroldego of substance––a Teroldego of substance playing the rosé card. Vinous, reminiscent of freshly cut pomegranate, watermelon, soil and coffee. A fresh and tangy mouth, which extends on salty notes and a typical and incisive final note of toasted almonds. The finish is fruity, austere, nuanced and very long.
Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Baldovino 2017 Tenuta i Fauri
Oh, the fruitiness. A plump and juicy perfectly ripe and fresh cherry. The feeling is that 2017 is a truly great year for Cerasuolo, completely different compared to the 2016 tasted 12 months ago. Enveloping and sinuous, with a floral note that's well focused, with a pure pleasure on the palate. Skipping the little-big wine categorization, this bottle sells at an exceptionally attractive price. The last item in our notes? Pizza! It must be the combination.
Bombino bianco 2017 Masseria Faraona
A high-altitude Pugliese white? Is this an experiment or a change of vision? Certainly, a well-cantered wine. The winery is in the Murgia Barese, the vineyards as high as 500-meter altitude. Minty profile, pure and fragrant, strong acidity and integrated into a slender body, still lacking a completeness on an aromatic level but it is tasty and with a fresh finish. Sold at about 10 euros in the wine shop, a price that you'll certainly not regret.
Rìas Baixas Albarino Xiòn 2016 Attis Bodegas Y Vinedos
We are between Santiago de Compostela and Vigo, located very close to the ocean and this is apparent in the glass. This Albarino is irreverent in its iodized and floral accents, with a pungent herbaceous note reminiscent of sautéed greens: in short, it prepares the stomach for food. With a crisp and taut mouth, and a finish in souplesse. 10 euros in the cellar. Exceptional selection Embaixador 2013, an Albarino even more profound in minerality that plays a delicately tannic repertoire and a juicier fruit: like hitting the catch of the day jackpot at Mojo Alcantara.
Forster Pechstein 2016 Margarethenhof
One of the most beautiful surprises of this ProWein is the group of youngsters from Winechanges, a spontaneous association of producers from the Palatinate who work together according to sustainability criteria: they have fun and make great Riesling (but not just that), you can read more about them in our monthly issue. Meanwhile, we offer you one of the most precious cru in the region. It has an elegant and suffused minerality/smoky touch; the mouth is compact and flexible; the finish is bright. The cost is 13 euros for a wine that is worth much more. It is not yet imported into Italy.
Riesling GG Kastanienbusch 2016 Okonomierat Rebholz
Among the chestnut trees of the Palatinate there is a special cru which renders a phenomenal wine, enchanting all those who taste it. Sumptuous in its minerality, with notes of oyster and sea urchin, it proceeds without muscles and stretches out with an unusual elegance: sapid, chiselled and very deep texture. With its rocky character it teases the mouth and leads to an infinite finish. In twenty years it will still be a young lad. The entire line proposed by Rebholz is exceptional, these are wines of extraordinary character. Imported in Italy by Pretzhof who always has great Riesling intuition.
Malvasia 2013 Podversic
If you love tea, this is your wine. If you love macerated wines, this is your wine. It's extraordinarily difficult to find a superior wine in this category. Every year in our blind tastings, the wines of Damijan Podversic win hands down. This Malvasia '13, retested during the Tre Bicchieri event, enchants with notes of yellow flowers, bitter oranges, and memories of apricots. The sweetness is balanced by a delicately bitter mouth, in a disarming balance of naturalness and progression. Together with the Villero 2013 of Brovia, we're at the top among the retested.
Buttafuoco Vigna Sacca del Prete 2012 Fiamberti
The idea of power connected with this historic red of Oltrepò Pavese, a blend of croatina and barbera, often flows into wines that are a bit anachronistic for concentration and tannic extraction. But here we have a complete and deep red. It combines intensity and fruity richness with a savoury, mature and dynamic flavour, with a well-balanced finish in its spicy overtones. It paired well with Sunday's copious snowfall in Düsseldorf.
Champagne Ambonnay 2011 Marguet
We actually can recall only very few of these Champagne millesimal. Big parcels, lots of work in the vineyard, zero doses, zero sulphites: Benoit Marguet does not lack courage. This 2011 shows off a very solid maturity, boasting a red juicy berry, notes of undergrowth and black tea for a glorious finish. The empty glass sings. Monumental Les Crayeres 2012 which has an aromatic definition and precision in HD. The Shaman Rosé 2014, open and evolved, is decidedly less convincing.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2010 Podere Castorani
The Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC celebrates its 50th anniversary and is the protagonist of one of the many after parties held after the trade fair. This selection is spot on. The nose is dark with memories of soil and spices, the mouth is a true portent. It has a truly inspiring background energy, doses richness and acid development to perfection. The change of pace is overwhelming, the finish is deep, tasty, fresh. It will also be ready for the 70th anniversary of the denomination.
by Lorenzo Ruggeri