The greatest case in Milanese dining in recent years. Only 40 seats, replicated on request but never fully satisfied on two shifts (with the option of a dozen more counting the counter and the small outdoor seating area), open six nights a week, with a menu structured on a handful of irremovable dishes (tripe in a couple of versions, the vitel tonné “reloaded” and one marrow when available) and a slender daily menu composed of reasoned improvisations, strictly dictated by inspiration and market? New trattoria, indeed. But the creature of Diego Rossi and Pietro Caroli, one keeper of the stoves, the other of format and management, is something different and more. The ability to write original scripts with invariable ease starting from offal, herbs, meat, pasta (tagliatelle with pheasant sauce), sea (octopus, carrot and cherry cream), recovering classics (beef bourguignonne with cardoons and snails) or displacing with a raw-cooked salad in several segments, it’s an absolute cuisine, beyond definitions. While the ambiance is spartan in aesthetics but cheerful in the atmosphere, and the always affordable prices beyond the success are set to make every customer happy. Plus, a service that whirls to the rhythm of the stoves and an essential and fanciful wine cellar like the flavours it supports, is about to celebrate the luster of duration.