We struggle to find something on the second floor of the concept store in the Galleria––and also at the street-level bistro––which is not in the style of Carlo Cracco. Not bending to the trend, not having the presumption of creating it, are the main values that make this experience unique. The place is suspended in time, and there are hardly any ingredients in the dishes that are non-Italian; and the recipes are never contaminated, they do not revisit, they do not minimalize. The reciped are Cracco’s, full stop. Inimitable in the continuous risky contrast and in avoiding that touch of “ruffian” that would not clash but would remove its authority, and the charm of the building. And in any case it’s a more centered cuisine than the first few months after opening, and at the same time “lighter” in spirit. Diners can choose from a menu where the section dedicated to the chef’s beloved eggs resists, but it’s in the 190 euro tasting that food lovers can experience true emotions. Three standing ovation dishes (and the others worthy of applause): golden canestrelli with roasted papaya, fermented plums and licorice; spaghetti “Valentino” creamed with black cabbage, salmon eggs, radishes and cocoa gruè; breast of roasted mallard, stuffed chard and carrots. Sommelier Alex Bartoli is in charge of a monumental wine list. There are about 2,000 labels in the cellar, which can be visited upon request, and containing a total of 10,000 bottles.